Zak and I left New Plymouth on Friday morning (yes, skipping ahead again--our internet access has been incredibly limited. We're paying per megabyte in most places, which is ridiculous. I had no idea how to gauge how much a megabyte of internet was until this trip.) We drove towards Mt. Egmont, and about half an hour south of New Plymouth, we turned off the main road and drove towards the mountain. We ended up hiking along a path called the
Kamahi Walk, or the Goblin Forest.
It was as if we had stepped into a different world. Lichen dripped off the trees, and the forest floor was dense and spongy, curving up hills and down again, the path gnarled with tree roots. We saw a few different birds that we recognized, and heard many more. There was a giant black and white bird whose wings made an incredible sound, almost mechanical, if you can believe it, and it called out in a loud cry, deeper than most bird cries. I believe it was this guy:

And OK, yes, it's a pigeon, but they apparently get to be about twenty inches high, according to Wikipedia.
I want to write about the forest at greater length later, and nothing I can say will truly do it justice. I really hope the pictures came out well.
After that, we drove up to a scenic area so we could see the mountain and look out over the surrounding area. We considered hiking more, but the hike we wanted to do would have taken us about eight hours, and we weren't equipped for that at all.
We drove for most of the rest of the day, getting into Wellington at around 4:45. The city was gleaming and spotless and...completely empty. There were tons of fancy, upscale stores...and they were all closed. Restaurants, pubs, everything--completely closed. We barely saw any people on the streets. It was really unsettling to be in a city that looked so much like a big American city (a lot like Seattle, or like downtown Frankfurt, actually) with almost no people in it.
We walked for a mile or two trying to find an internet cafe so we could find a hotel. No dice. We tried standing on the street with Zak's netbook, attempting to steal access to an open wireless network, but apparently Wellingtonians, if there actually are any, are too smart for that.
After my feet were starting to hurt and we had almost given up and gone back to the car so we could cover ground faster, we found a convenience store with a few computers in the back. We were incredibly relieved to book our hotel and get out of that unsettling, abandoned part of town. Or, at least, I was. Zak didn't seem as put off by it as I was. Then again, he didn't have to pee as badly as I did.
We freshened up at the hotel and read our books for a few hours, then decided to try to find some dinner. The hotel was on The Terrace Street, which is apparently not as centrally located as I thought it was. We walked another mile before we started to get into a more densely populated area where restaurants were actually open.
Unfortunately, we had waited too long at the hotel, so it was almost ten pm. And to be fair, that's a bit late to start looking for dinner, even by New York standards. We passed dozens of delicious looking restaurants, but most of them were closed. We finally decided on an upscale pizza place that was mostly empty, though we promised ourselves we would try a Thai/Indian fusion place called Monsoon Poon some other time. We hopped a cab back to the hotel, because it was two miles away and it was after 11 pm, and darn it, our feet hurt.
On Saturday, we woke up late and packed all of our stuff up and left it in the car. The hotel was nice, but too far away from everything we wanted to see, so we decided to find a new one for Saturday night. We walked around for a while, looking for breakfast, but we were still in a bizarre, unpopulated part of Wellington, and we were also being picky. On our way, we found a game store that Zak wanted to check out, and it was incredible. We spent an hour or so there looking at all these games we'd never seen before and talking to the incredibly helpful shopkeeper. We ended up buying just one game--New Zealand prices are very high, and our suitcases were pretty full already when we brought them over here.
After brunch, we set off to find the museum. We didn't particularly take the most direct route...in fact, there's a strong possibility that we took the least direct route. We walked along the waterfront for half a mile or a mile, then looped back around behind all the restaurants, galleries, and stores, then crossed a bridge that I'm pretty sure didn't need to be crossed, then consulted a map and discovered that we had only been about 200 yards from the museum when we started our quest. Oh well.
The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa was huge by New Zealand standards. It was like a combination of the Museum of Natural History and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. There were some really interesting interactive displays--I got to pick up rocks from the earth's crust (heavy), the mantle (heavier), and the core (it's just a giant block of steel). I walked over touch-sensitive screens embedded in the floor which displayed a natural map of the two islands of New Zealand. The map lit up when I stepped on it, and I showed Zak the route we had taken so far, and what our upcoming plans were. Without roads labeled or anything. The road atlas that Suzy Hotrod's boyfriend Andy lent us has been well-used this trip.
There were a lot of earthquake-related exhibits, including a tiny house that simulated what it feels like to be in an earthquake. I was kind of hoping it would be more drastic, but I guess when the whole world is moving, it's pretty alarming. While we waited in line for that one, we watched a bunch of kids jumping on a platform, trying to make a level 10 earthquake. It was like one of those strong-man attractions at a sideshow, with a bar up the side showing how strong you are. I'm proud (mostly) to declare that I was able to create a level 10 earthquake, using the deep-squat/jump that our speed skating coach taught us at derby practice. So what if I had sixty pounds on those kids?
We returned to Monsoon Poon for dinner, and had a really incredible meal. After that, we wandered around for a while. I found a cool playground and swung on the swingset for a while, but Zak didn't think the set was pro-rated for someone of his size. He did, however, test out the slidey platform that was set on a semi-circular metal bar--like a skateboard bolted to a metal halfpipe. I almost injured myself on that, so I decided to skip the climbing wall.
This morning, we discovered that the Wellington police are nothing if not thorough. Zak went down to the car this morning to put money in the meter. When we got back to the car a few hours later, apparently the time had run out about 15 minutes beforehand. We had not one, but two tickets on the winshield: one for parking there without having a valid ticket, and one for having a not-valid ticket on our dashboard. I sputtered indignantly for about ten minutes until I finally decided that two $12 tickets were nothing to get that worked up over.
We grabbed lunch to go, then waited in a line of cars at the ferry terminal. There was a white, vintage, convertible Rolls Royce a few cars behind us. It looked kind of like this, except without the bride and groom.

The ferry ride was mostly uneventful, though after we could see the south island, Zak and I went outside to look around. I still can't believe it, but after five or ten minutes of staring at trees and mountains, we saw a whole school (flock? gaggle?) of dolphins, leaping out of the water and swimming alongside the ferry. When my family went to the Galapagos, I saw a few dolphins, but I've never seen so many before. There must have been forty of them. Again, hoping the pictures came out. Not mine--my camera was completely not up to the task, so I just put it away and stared with my eyes wide and my mouth hanging open. Zak jumped into action, switching lenses like a pro on his super-fancy camera, so hopefully he has one or two cool shots of them.
After we drove off the ferry, our (mostly) trusty GPS unit was baffled and took us down a weird road about a mile out of our way. Fortunate for us, because the route he guided us on took us past Oyster Bay Vineyards, which has become one of my favorites over the last few months. Their sauvignon blanc is incredible, and their chardonnay isn't half-bad, either. We didn't actually stop there, but it was neat to drive by.
I thought we might stop for the night in an old gold mining town, but apparently there's nothing left--we arrived in the town and were out the other side before I even had a chance to look around. I think the entire town was just one hotel, and not a very interesting-looking one at that. So we soldiered onward to Nelson, an artsy town on the north shore of the south island. And that is where we are right now.
I am sure I will go back and write about the missing pieces of the trip at some later date, but not tonight. Until next time (we have internet access).